search instagram arrow-down

Recent Posts



“The training didn’t work.”

What are you measuring?

If you spent the winter training on the fingerboard to get your fingers stronger, success/failure on your project doesn’t tell you how well your fingerboard program worked.

Maybe finger strength wasn’t your limiting factor, or you neglected to rebuild adequate fitness.

Maybe conditions were bad this season.

By testing the right things and creating benchmarks to measure improvement, we begin to understand what’s working, and we learn what we can skip next time.

What was your one rep max before the training? How much did it improve?

I get it. It was a lot of hard work, and you still didn’t send.

But if you’ve been measuring the wrong things, don’t assume the training was just a waste of time.