The key to a good bouldering session is to rest more than you think you need to.
I learned the one-minute-per-move rule from Dave MacLeod, and have found it to be an incredibly helpful guideline.
If you fall at the fifth move on your project, take five minutes before you try it again.
If it’s a one-move-wonder, 60-90 seconds is likely enough.
Ten moves, ten minutes.
Fifteen, fifteen.
It’s when boulder problems get longer that people tend to break the rule.
When it feels like too much rest, take a moment to observe all of the strongest guys in the gym:
They’re the ones you see sitting around on the sidelines, waiting patiently to give everything on their next attempt.
The Daily Nugget 