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Which is best?

For the redpoint crux of your project, there are a number of beta options that will work. And you have to pick one.

It isn’t a matter of, “this one is right and those ones are wrong”.

Rather, it’s a process of assessing your options in context, giving thoughtful consideration to the many factors at play.

A few factors and ways to think about them:

1) Your strengths and weaknesses

  • It may be worth playing to your strengths, even if that method feels a bit harder in isolation.

2) Learnability of the moves

  • We have more potential for quick improvement in some areas vs. others: 
    • a coordinated move that involves our muscles will likely feel a lot easier after a few sessions
    • our ability to pull on a small crimp won’t change as noticeably
      • Is it worth choosing a harder move to avoid the crimp?

3) Repeatability and control

  • If the easiest method is low percentage, or relies more heavily on conditions and friction, is it worth it?

4) The demands of the rest of the route

  • What is the climbing like up to the crux, and what comes immediately after? With this in mind, do the limiting factors change?

Sometimes a crux has perfect beta: one method that is easiest for everybody.

More often there are options, and it is our job to discover which is best for us.